Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Rocca Family Vineyards - 188

Downtown Napa is becoming quite the place to hang a shingle. New restaurants are popping up and re-vitalization is happening to the credit of the city. On Main Street, where some of the best restaurants in the valley can be found, a new tasting room has opened, Rocca Family Vineyards.

Mary Rocca, proprietress, has a beautiful smile. She should too... she used to be a dentist! She sold her practice to run a gourmet grocery store in Pt. Reyes (and still owns it), but has zeroed her attention to her wine. Having Celia Welch Masyczek has her winemaker certainly doesn't hurt either. While Mary's Rocca name is on the bottle and the building, her husband, Eric Grigsby, is definitely an influence. For starters, they had established a second label, H. Gray, which was in honor of Eric's father and grandfather. Also, take a close look at the Bad Boy Red label; a studly black and white image of a cowboy graces the bottle. And who do you think that studly cowboy is? Eric, of course.

Unlike most other tasting rooms in the valley, Mary's is geared more towards providing a relaxing and inviting atmosphere. Yes, there is a tasting bar, but the cozy leather chairs and living room-like feel is warm and  comfortable atmosphere. Chatting with Mary, they are already considering buying some vineyard property in the Lodi area for the cultivation of some white grapes. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a Viognier or Roussanne, and look forward to the additional fabulous wines coming from this relatively new producer!

2002 H. Gray, Amador County Zinfandel - Fruit forward on the nose, this medium-bodied entry has a spicy entry with a sweet core of fresh herbs and clean fruit. This is the one wine that Mary produces from purchased grapes; all else she harvests from her own vineyards. Fabulous bargain for a great drinking wine! $20.00

2003 Bad Boy Red, Yountville - 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Syrah, 13% Petite Sirah. Intense, dark spicy wine with a core of peppery, blackberry and boysenberry. Rich entry that is clean and dark. Amazing liqueur flavors with chocolate, tobacco, cocoa, and coffee. Easy and smooth, but with a delightful piquant kick at the end. $29.00

2001 Rocca Cabernet Sauvignon, Yountville - Big, massive Cab showing cherry, tobacco, and integrated herbs. The mouth feel has some classic dusty cocoa of the Yountville appellation, but is well balanced with vanilla and a touch of anise and dark cherry. Lovely, lingering finish. $34.00

2001 Rocca Syrah - Big blackberry wine with sweet licorice and elegant, exotic perfumey notes. Massive entry that has layers of spicy and sweet tones of black plum and blackberry, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and licorice. $38.00

Rocca Family Vineyards ~ 1130 Main Street ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 707-257-8467
3 current offerings: $7.00
3 current offerings with 1 library wine: $10.00
All open bottles also sold by the glass

Zahtila - 187

In the past, I have mentioned a great admiration for women winemakers. I have now started an investigation into women-owned wineries. I am very intrigued with the trials and tribulations facing women in what is generally considered a male-dominated industry. For this visit, fate has brought me to visit Zahtila Vineyards, located just a hundred yards north of the Silverado Trail and Calistoga's Lincoln Road juncture, to chat with Laura Zahtila personally.

Don't drive too quickly on the main road - the entrance to Zahtila is just on the right and almost hidden by large trees and brush. It would be very easy to drive right past it and head onwards toward Hidden Valley. After parking, I was immediately and warmly greeted by Zoe, the winery dog, who does her duty well as goodwill ambassador. She will guide you up the walkway, past the rose-covered house that acts as the office and administration building, towards the back of the property where the tasting room lies.

Laura is relatively new to the wine world. Having done well during the dot-com boom, a passion for wine brought her to Napa when she purchased her first vineyard from the Traulsen family in 1999. This had been a family endeavor with her husband, but they soon realized the passion was all hers and parted ways.

Laura now has complete control and the business is hers and hers alone and she is learning the business from the ground up. While not having any formal winemaking  training, she relies on a consulting winemaker for much of the technical aspects but ultimately makes all of the blending decisions. The wine has her name so while the buck stops here, she has every reason to be exceptionally proud of what she has created in such a short time! Now moving beyond her own Calistoga vineayrd, she has started contracting for additional grapes and this year released her first Chardonnay.

2004 Napa Valley Chardonnay - From Bocannon fruit, this was a decidedly good first attempt. Clean, crisp grapefruit core with bright citrus pineapple. Very bright, clean entry showing green apple and carved, distinct fruit. $18.00

2003 Zinfandel, Dry Creek - Red berry black fruit with dusty floral tones. Brambleberry dominates the rich mouth entry and shows a hefty chocolate mid-palate. Clean and round, the full flavors produce a distinctive, spicy finish $20.00

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - From Conn Valley fruit, 30% new American oak. Rich ruby red to the edge produces earthy, erotic, smoky bouquet with hints of sage and dried herbs. Medium-bodied, the expansive crisp fruit shows heightened acidity and perfectly integrated tannins. The palate is layered with earth and dark fruit and shows touch of smoke on the finish. $33.00

2002 Beckstoffer Cabernet Sauvignon - From Rutherford fruit, this dark magenta wine produces intense, rich plum aromas with layers of spice, black currant, and a touch of vanilla. Hedonistic in the mouth, the flavors are smooth and complex, a bit sweet on the entry, but rounding out to show opulence and immense quality. Needs to cost more... $48.00

Zahtila Vineyards ~ 2250 Lake County Highway ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~94515 ~ 707-942-9251
$5.00 tasting

Paraduxx - 184

It isn't often I get to document the opening of a new winery. I have been watching the construction of Paraduxx for almost a year with so many questions raging through my brain. Mostly, what would possess a well-known winery such as Duckhorn, to put an astonishing amount of money into a facility for a second label -- a second label, no less, that is a BLEND???

It is odd, yes, but all will be revealed... The grand opening was a masterful affair of grace, good wine, and perfection in catering. Valet parking attendants took the car upon arrival and a small crowd was already gathered around a reception table in front of the newly-constructed guest building. Brightly yellow-colored with darker apricot trim, the smell of freshly-applied paint lingered in the air.

The tasting room, with its vaulted, wood-beamed ceiling, and oversized windows, has been filled with comfortable Barcelona chairs sitting scattered around an inviting, expansive view.  From there, we see the decagon fermentation cellar, a large, elegantly-designed building that Dan Duckhorn has been dreaming about for years.  He bought these 40 acres back in 1996 and plans were made then to eventually build a winery on this property when -- and only when -- the Paraduxx blend was accepted as a wine in its own standing and not just as an offshoot second label from the Duckhorn name.

Glancing through the window, there is not only the decagon building, but on the day of my visit, the catered celebration; hors d'oeuvre stations, cocktail tables, and multiple pouring tables where earlier vintages of Paraduxx were being offered.

The ten-sided building is magical, with the brand new, large stainless steel fermentation tanks surrounding the Porsche of grape presses. This is a basket press that uses higher pressure, getting better extraction out of the grapes.

How do I know all this? For the opening, Bill Nancarrow, the winemaker, gave a guided tour, gleeful and gloating like a kid on Christmas morning with a brand new fire truck. The winery grand opening party was not exactly Christmas morning, however. September 1st was the official day they were open for business, with their first load of grapes arriving for crushing on the 2nd. Bill has been the winemaker for three years and also explained that the 40 acres only provides about 50% of the grapes needed for the Paraduxx wine. The remainder is purchased, which is a standard practice in the industry.

So now there is a nifty new winery to visit on the glorious Silverado Trail. A stunning facility, gorgeous wine, and beautiful surroundings.

1998 Paraduxx - Exact blend unavailable. Sweet and exotic in its age, this wine was being poured from magnums that were not available for sale. Spicy and erotic, the balance showed deep tobacco and cherry tones with an earthy complex mid-palate. Intense and well-aged, tones of vanilla and dark black fruit showing sweet on the end.

2000 Paraduxx - Earthy, dark rustic cherry tones. Aging smoothly with intense depth, a touch of dusty floral qualities in the mid-palate is enticing and exotic with a light, sweet vanilla finish. $

2001 Paraduxx - Developed dark spice and black fruit bouquet. Heady and rich upon entry with black cherry, black plum, and blueberry. Cedar wafts in for a mere moment and is finished with layers of coconut, vanilla, and toasty oak.

2002 Paraduxx - Fruit forward aromas of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and black currant. Jammy entry that is peppery is spicy with black pepper and hot brown spices. A whisper of vanilla behind the black plum and blackberry finish.

2003 Paraduxx - 63% Zinfandel, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. This was a preview tasting of a wine to be released in January, 2006. Aromas of dark blueberry, spicy cocoa,  chocolate, and vanilla cream. The entry is still young and fruity, dominating in blueberry flavors but with a rich inlay of vanilla liqueur and a hint of lavender. Not yet priced.

Paraduxx ~ 1000 Lodi Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7108
$10.00 tasting includes current release and two library wines.

Spencer Roloson - 183

One of the difficulties of finding and tasting the wines of very small producers is that a large percentage of them don't have tasting rooms or visitor facilities. They rely on custom crush wineries to help them make their wine and I have to carefully monitor local pouring events to see if they are offering tastes... This was how I stumbled on yet another illusive producer from the Napa valley, Spencer Roloson Winery, at the latest Copia tasting...

I was first drawn to the Mondrian-style design on the bottles, but then by the actual varietals. No standard Chard or Cab here! Nope - unusual and intriguing grapes are the norm. It is a small operation; Sam Spencer is the winemaker and has a varied background having started in the wine industry in New Zealand. Sam is the technician in the project, crafting the wine from grapes grown in what can only be considered extremist vineyards (a Clear Lake Tempranillo?). Wendy Roloson is his partner and it is she who is responsible for the design of the bottles and the marketing of the brand. Swan Day is the third leg in the tripod and it was she whom I met and was able to learn about this impressive wine. There were three available for me to taste, but five wines are in their book and I will look forward to acquiring and tasting the rest!

2004 Viognier, Noble Vineyard, Knights Valley - Fabulously rich nose of yellow and white stone fruit; peach, apricot, and yellow plum with layers of exotic, spicy flowers. Expressive, complex flavors that mirror the bouquet with a clean, bright acidity that heightens with a slightly mineral finish. $30.00

2003 Tempranillo, Madder Lake Vineyard, Clear Lake - What can I say? I adore Tempranillo and there are so few California wineries producing one that I am hard-pressed to not be thrilled... I find many Spanish Tempranillos medium-bodied so discovering a California version that is hefty and full-bodied is doubly more exciting. Dark and plummy, the hefty nose shows also displays vanilla, chocolate, and dark exotic earthy tones. Smooth and velvety in the mouth, black fruits dominate and show a hint of tobacco and rustic earth. $30.00

2003 Syrah, La Herrandura Vineyard, Napa Valley - These vineyards are located in Conn Valley which is just over the hill from the Meadowood resort. Inky black in color, with spicy exotic liqueur aromas of blackberry, blueberry, and clove. It is illusive and powerful showing concentrated flavors of black fruit with whispers of mineral and a defined herbal finish. $38.00

Spencer Roloson Winery ~ 1207 Randolph Street ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 707-257-5880
No public tasting facility.

Hagafen Cellars - 179

In Hebrew, hagafen means "the vine." And I was fascinated to learn that a premiere kosher winery exists in Napa! When people think of kosher in regards to wine, one immediately thinks of Manischevitz, but Hagafen Cellars is Napa-based, certified kosher, and astonishingly great! I am not going to give a whole analysis of how kosher wines are made. There are enough websites that will do that other than to tell you that the wine is briefly flash pasteurized at 185 degrees and blessed by an in-house Rabbi.

Located just off the Silverado Trail, Hagafen is owned by Ernie and Irit Weir and by all accounts, they are very hands-on owners with Ernie managing the vineyards AND making the wine. The day of my visit, a large group was expected for lunch and I was told how Irit had prepared an entire Turkish-inspired meal.

Although I did not get an opportunity to meet the Weirs, I was introduced to She Who Really Runs Everything: Lola. We all know that winery cats are true power behind the thrones and Lola certainly held court as stately queen of the tasting room. Another interesting aspect of the tasting room (one you MUST ask about), are the frogs...

The tasting room is small and elegant, surrounded with cases of wine and accolades on the walls. You can hear the high-pitched chirps echoing around you. They are there, you see... Small little frogs who like to hang out in the tasting room, mostly behind the framed pictures of the family, articles, and well-deserved ratings. It is charming and disconcerting at the same time and I'm surprised Lola hasn't had her way with them...

2001 Brut Cuvée Sparkling Wine - Yep, a sparkling kosher! Made from Carneros grapes which are purchased, a mere 500 cases are made. 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, this wine is creamy and nutty with hints of toast and ripe white fruit. $30.00

2004 Chardonnay - 100% malo displays a light, creamy floral nose. Initial flavors are of yellow peach and apricot with a light, toasty oak finish. $18.00

2004 Pinot Noir - 8 month in French oak. Bright cherry and raspberry aromas mirrored in the crisp mouth entry. Engaging terroir is warm and rich in this medium-bodied wine with a soft, mineral finish. $32.00

2002 Merlot - Warm, dark cherry bouquet. Easy spiced tobacco entry with hints of chocolate. Developed and easy to drink. $27.00

2000 Merlot - With 10% Cabernet. Some funky earth terroir blows off to display older brambleberry tones. Medium-bodied with integrated tannins. $39.00

1998 Merlot - Bricky-edged color showing age and earth and leather and a tease of the fruit from days gone by. Probably has six month to a year left in it and great fun to find an affordable library wine! $49.00

2001 Syrah - Terroir-driven earthy wine with a touch of brambleberry. Merlot-like nose and an easy, berry fruit mouth entry that brightens upon opening. Medium bodied makes this another easy-to-drink wine. $27.00

2000 Syrah - Similar to the '01 with a bit more earth and age. $39.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - With 12% Cabernet Franc. Earthy tobacco and leather nose. Beefy, dark fruit textured flavors with perfectly balanced tannins. $40.00

2004 White Riesling - At 3.9% residual sugar. Engaging nose of white flowers and a hint of bright spice and freshly cut grass. Clean tastes of white fruit; white pear, white grapes, and white melon. Not syrupy or sticky, but crisp and fun. $19.00

Hagafen Cellars ~ 4160 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ Ca ~ 94558 ~ 707-252-0791
$5.00 for four current release whites
$5.00 for four current release reds
$10.00 for four library wines

Signorello - 177

Along the Silverado Trail, there sit a handful of wineries that are located up on the edge of the hillside - making entrance to the facilities up long, stately drive ways. Signorello is just such a vineyard and upon arrival, guests face an elegant, half vine-covered stone building.

A glance behind the building makes visible a handful of outdoor sculptures, a swimming pool, some patio furniture, and a built-in barbecue. The first thought is that some really great parties must be held here. When you wander into the building, immediately to your left you will see a kitchen. Yeah, REALLY good parties...

During my visit, the single worker manning the tasting station seemed a bit overwhelmed, but managed to keep track of everyone's pourings. During a quiet moment, I managed to ask him about the kitchen. I was wrong about the parties. The location is classified as a private residence, hence the kitchen, swimming pool, etc. The tasting bar is merely an adjunct to Ray Signorello Jr.'s home - although he lives most of the time in Canada.

2003 Pinot Noir, Las Amigas Vineyard - These are from vineyards that were planted by Louis Martini in 1946. Warm, earthy tones with a candied cherry core. Medium-body mouth entry, the tone finishes a tad hot. $36.00

2002 Zinfandel, Luvisi Vineyard - This 100% Zinfandel has surprisingly light aromas of raspberry. The flavors are a bit heftier, but not a whole lot; some dark fruit and spice with an acidic entry. $34.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate - Green bell pepper and jalapeño aromas. Hot, spicy entry with some purple fruit under the heat showing an unbalanced finish of dryness. $39.00

2002 Syrah, Estate - Dark purple color giving off green, hospital aromas. Hot, hot, hot. $36.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate - 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot. Green olive and cherry with some dusty, woods twigs in the center with a dry, peppery finish. $48.00

Signorello Vineyards ~ 4500 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-255-5990

Venge Vineyards - 172

Nils Venge has quite a reputation in both the Napa valley and in the wine world in general. Besides being a consulting winemaker for Robert Keenan and Plumpjack Winery. Nils was also instrumental in the establishment Saddleback Cellars, but it was with his son, Kirk, that the family name finally ended up on a label of its own, Venge Vineyards. His renown came while working at Groth where he became the first American winemaker to receive an illusive 100 points from noted wine critic Robert Parker for his 1985 Groth Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

Venge's namesake wine is made at what is historically known as the Rossini Ranch. Built by Swiss Italian immigrant Carlo Rossini in 1891, like many other wineries of its age, it suffered the Prohibition shut-down syndrome. It is located on the base of Howell Mountain, several miles back a long and twisty road that one may believe goes no where. Keep going...

Nils and family have completely renovated the building. The top floor is the home of the tasting room. Bright with natural light from vaulted ceilings, it has yet to see an abundance of decorations or knick-knacks. The tasting is not confined to this room, but includes a tour of the entire facilities. The first wine or two is tasted at the bar. From there, guests are led down into the belly of the building.

A table has been set up in the cellar area where most of the red wines are tasted. It is gratifying to see a working winery from the inside and be able to enjoy its bounty. While the tasting is appointment-only, I stumbled in one weekday afternoon and was still granted courteous hospitality and a tasting.

2004 Bianco Spettro - 55% Chardonnay, 38% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Marsanne. White floral nose that is rich with a hint of sweetness. Smooth mouth entry that has a nice oily sensation. Clean feeling with yellow peach tones. $25.00

2002 Sangiovese – The first impression faked me out a bit with a Cabernet-like blackberry nose. A swirl opened it to warm, sweet cinnamon and cherry aromas. Sweet entry expands to display ripe red fruit. There was an underlying minerality which fills out, produces intense balanced flavors, and culminates in a spicy finish. $30.00.

2003 Scout's Honor - 70% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 15% Charbono. The story behind the name of this wine is a remembrance to Kirk's beloved yellow lab, Scout. I must admit this is a hard wine to describe because there is so much going on; a core of smoke, layers of sweetness and spice, and effusive brambleberry. $35.00

2001 Merlot - Redolent with valley terroir. Rich with earthy tones, tobacco, leather, and dark berry. The flavors are rich and complex that finishes with some dusty herbal notes. $40.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon - Overwhelming nose of green bell pepper, jalapeño, and eucalyptus. Smooth entry that blossoms to show red cherry and a dark black anise. $95.00

Venge Vineyards ~ 424 Crystal Springs Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-967-1008

Carrefour - 167

There is always a pang of guilt when I am introduced to a Napa-based winery that I had never heard of before. At the Copia Cognoscente tasting, I was wracked with guilt seeing a roomful of unfamiliar names. So I was extremely grateful to a few folks who stuck around during the lunch break to chat with me, first and foremost, Greg and Marilyn Nitz, proprietors of Carrefour Vineyards, along with their winemaker, Kelly De'Ianni (she's the one on the far left).

With fifteen acres of grapes that they had previously been selling to Rombauer and still sell to Duckhorn, the 2004 their Sauvignon Blanc is now their first release. Additional grapes planted include most of the Bordeaux varietals with Pinot Noir coming from purchased grapes in Carneros. Great people and great wines -- and something new worth looking out for!

2004 Oak Knoll Sauvignon Blanc - Intense green fig and floral bouquet. Grapefruit entry is balanced and vibrant without being astringent. The lemony finish shows depth and elegance. Only 340 cases produced. $16.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir - 1,200 cases produced of this new entry on the Pinot market. Bright spicy cherry in the nose mirrors the mouth entry. Tons going on in layers of complex fruit and integrated spice. The overall structure is medium bodied and the finish keeps going. $28.00

2003 Napa Valley Cabernet - 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Verdot. Dark, rich purple wine. Still unreleased, the flavors are admittedly young with depth of herb and mineral. Fruit is still tight and I would love to taste this wine in five or ten years. Not yet priced.

Carrefour ~ No address yet available ~ 707-252-9167

Axios - 164

This is going to be a rare one for me -- for change, I am going to document a winery and wine without having met its principals, visited its vineyards, or talked to anybody who even works for the winery. While at the Copia Cognoscente tasting, the folks at The Bounty Hunter had a number of wines they were representing on their table. The parchment paper color, Doré-like woodcut design, and deckled edge drew my eye. Axios.  It is a Greek word that looks like this: άξιος and means, worth.

Reading through the company website, the gist is that a Constantine 'Gus' Kalaris, after running a wine distribution company for twenty-plus years, decided to finally begin making his own. Kalaris did well in hiring winemaker Robert Egelhof, mythic for his association with such wines as Harlan, Pahlmeyer, and David Arthur. I can't tell you anything else. Their website has vineyard information for the 1999 release, yet what I tasted was a pre-release which won't be available for sale until the middle of 2006. Perhaps at that point I can re-visit this intriguing wine house and tell you more.

2003 Axios Cabernet Sauvignon - Medium red color, giving the aloof  impression of a light-bodied wine. While not have heavy as I would have preferred, the aromas of defined minerals, juicy plum, and dusty herbs don't disappoint. The mouth entry is clean and deep, showing supple wood and rich, dark berry fruit. $130.00.

No company information available. Earlier vintages available through Bounty Hunter; link above.

Robert Craig Wine Cellars - 160

I've know about Robert Craig Wine Cellars for a while, in a back-handed sort of way... When I was working up at Ladera, Robert Craig's winemaker, Chad, would come over and visit as he and Tres are really good friends. I've been privy to a tasting now and then but never got to visit the actual facility up on Howell Mountain. Fortunately for me -- and now for you! -- they have opened a tasting room in downtown Napa, making it a lot easier for all concerned except for maybe Chad, who still drives up the mountain to make their extraordinary wine.

The downside to the tasting room is that it is quite off the beat-and-track. Although technically downtown, it is located in a small building essentially surrounded with some of the more downtrodden Victorians (although there is hope as signs of renovation abound). An additional note on the tasting room; because of its slightly remote location, it is technically appointment-only, Tuesdays through Saturday. Although Rachel Miller, their manager, assures me that she tries her best to never turn anyone away.

The day of my visit was a special open house so there were some munchies and Ms. Lynn Craig there to welcome visitors. Rachel advised me that normally the table is set-up for a more informative sit-down tasting which is always complimentary (yet another rarity in Napa!). And knowing my penchant for mountain wines, how could I not be impressed...

2002 Syrah - Rich, sweet aromas of smoke and bacon with a tease of mint. Chocolate taste at first, then dark fruit streaks of blueberry, blackberry, and plum. Rachel explained this was a the blend of two vineyards; a cool Los Olivos and a warmer Paso Robles. Being younger than I normally drink Syrah, I was impressed that it already showed supple, smooth characteristics. Medium-bodied, it was not over-the-top with heat or alcohol, but already well-developed. $28.00

2000 Affinity - Their name for the Bordeaux blends that are made, which are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. In this case 76% Cabernet, 22% Merlot, and 2% Petite Verdot. The wine displayed some dark, twiggy, rustic brambleberry aromas with a whisper of chocolate. Initially sweet on the entry, an earthy core was balanced with dark blueberry and a rich, long, silky finish. Sold Out

2001 Affinity - 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 2% Pertite Verdot. Intensely rich dark core of blackberry and smoke with a hint of sweetness on the back of the nose. Tight entry blossoms to show bright, engaging fruit with some oak and a currant finish. $Available only as part of a vertical

2002 Affinity - Over-the-top black fruit with tones of black licorice. Bright, sweet entry is concentrated with layers of herbs. Darker finish with a touch of cocoa. $40.00

2002 Mt. Veeder Cabernet - 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Classic Veeder with tons of dark cherry, leather, and tobacco. A touch of hot twig and herbs showing the wine's youth. Mouth entry has tons of up-front fruit with flavors of dark cherry and cranberry. $50.00

2002 Howell Mountain Cabernet - Purple in color, spice dominates the intense dark fruit aromas. Silky smooth entry is velvety and rich with developed structure and perfectly balanced tannins. Supple. Wine club members only.

Robert Craig Wine Cellars ~ 880 Vallejo Street ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 707-252-2250

Rutherford Ranch/Round Hill Vineyards - 158

As one travels up the Silverado Trail, northbound from Napa to Calistoga, there is a single large turn off towards Lake Berryessa.  After rows and rows of vineyards, the intersection suddenly stands out as a span of open field is punctuated by a large collection of old, stately trees. The trees are the shading and elegant setting of Rutherford Ranch.

The estate has a a small creek running through it as well as a pond. A series of small buildings, which I believe are guest houses, are nestled amongst the trees. I did not get an opportunity to walk around and hope that the proprietors have made this idyllic space available to visitors and not simply relegated the enclave to office space. The day of my visit was just after a family wedding and any crew who could have answered questions was too inundated with other visitors.

The tasting room itself is contained within a stately, sprawling building. I was able to talk with one chap in the tasting room about the two separate labels. Many business decisions are made when second labels are created and I was curious about the differences between the Rutherford Ranch and Round Hill labels. Apparently the gist of the Round Hill entirely for a bulk retail market and not really poured in the tasting room. Although the day of my visit, the Round Hill Chardonnay was being poured as it had won a series of awards.

What is most impressive about the winery's operation is that in producing over 100,000 cases, the presentation of two labels and a public facility is not that which impacts consumers most. It is a private label business which includes the likes of Auberge du Soleil and a number of other prestigious restaurants. You may never know the next time you are dining in our favorite restaurant and are offered their own wine -- it very well could be a Rutherford Ranch wine!  A note on prices; their website does not currently list selling prices and I have misplaced the price sheet I took from the winery, but suffice to say that the average price is in the $10 to $20 range.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Rutherford Ranch - Tart grapefruit dominates. Crisp, acidic mouth entry shows pungent lemon grass with a chewy lemon peel finish.

2004 Round Hill Chardonnay - A hint of malo displays a bit defined cream and butter upon entry but finishes a bit crisp with textured lemon flavors.

2003 Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay - Rich lemon bouquet with thick buttery mouth entry.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Merlot - Mostly warm berry tones in the nose with a hint of metal funk. Smooth entry is a bit hot with a twiggy, earthy mid-palate and a sharp chocolate finish.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Zinfandel - 97% Zinfandel, 1.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1.5% 'Proprietary Blend' - Medium bodied offering with tons of black cherry and licorice aromas. Simple, easy mouth entry with a crisp, mocha finish.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon - Tight, blackberry bouquet coupled with earth and oak. Blueberry flavors are somewhat flaccid.

2004 Rutherford Ranch Moscato - Clear straw color. Sweet orange blossom and yellow flowers in the nose. Clean flavors of ripe pear and apricot. Not syrupy or overly sweet but bright and engaging.

Rutherford Ranch/Round Hill Vineyards ~ 1680 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-778-0424

Napa Cellars - 157

I have long admired the Napa Cellars' logo. The clean pen-and-ink drawing of an up-turned hand, scrolled elegantly upward. It is the type of script that makes me believe it actually says something, but I'm not brilliant enough to see it. What is the orb floating above the hand? A grape? The world? Is the hand waiting to grasp what is plunging downwards towards the grasp or has the hand just flung the sphere into the air? Questions like this plague me, I'm afraid and I doubt I will ever have a definitive answer. But I like it, regardless.

Napa Cellars is one of the first wineries that greets visitors entering the Napa Valley via Highway 29. The building is a Bucky-Fuller geodesic dome (albeit a slightly squashed, low-slung dome). It is one of the rare down-valley wineries boasting a public picnic facility -- something of a rarity I have come to learn.

Despite the impression that the building is mildly squat, the interior tasting room is surprisingly open with its vaulted ceilings and sky lights. During my visit, some first time wine tasters were visiting from out-of-state and the pouring staff were extremely helpful in the instruction of Wine-Tasting 101. This is actually rather refreshing as I have witnessed far too many occasions where those just starting out were treated with more condescension instead of congeniality. Easy to drink and affordable, Napa Cellars is a great place to begin when first visiting the Napa Valley.

2004 Vin Gris - An odd rosé blend of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Pale, pink color with fresh berry aromas that is only a tad sweet on entry. Surprisingly integrated and not too tangy. Fresh finish. $14.95

2002 Napa Valley Zinfandel - From south St. Helena, this produces a rich, soft nose of dark spice including nutmeg and clove that just barely hides a hint of black pepper. Chocolate entry sweetens in the mid-palate to a long, dry finish of cocoa. $19.75

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Toasty nose with a touch of green bell pepper. Dry entry produces cedar and dark berry. The finish was a tad thin. $25.75

2001 Napa Valley Syrah - From a north Napa vineyard, only 500 cases were produced. Sweet licorice and blackberry liqueur show richness and complexity. Chewy mouth entry expands with dark fruit and vanilla. $32.50

2001 Late Harvest Zinfandel - Full bodied and rich, a medium amount of herbs keeps it from being overly sweet. Integrated fruit and cocoa. $29.75

Napa Cellars ~ 7481 St. Helena Highway ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-944-2565

Raymond - 156

In the Napa valley, between Highway 29 and the Silverardo Trail, there are just a few access roads that connect to two main arteries which keep the life blood of America's most famous wine area flowing. For visitors to the Napa valley, it is exactly those wineries on the 29 and the Silverado Trail which see the majority of the business. But it is those little-travelled access roads which often house worthwhile investigation. Raymond Winery is just such a find.

Zinfandel Lane is one of the connecting roads and lies just south of the town of St. Helena. There are actually only two or three public wineries on this road, the rest being appointment-only. The surprise is that I had driven past Raymond dozens of times without realizing it was there, being so well hidden by shrubbery and plant life. Driving through a maze of vines from the entrance, the winery complex comes into view, reflecting a 1950s ranch house in its epoch, lying low to the ground. Despite the sense of entering fifty-year old time warp, the landscaping is open, vast, and inviting due to the predominance of colorful flowers.

The tasting room is similarly austere with a touch of non-tangible nostaligia. There is nothing specific in alluding to the age; perhaps it is merely the architecture. The tasting room is not overwhelmed with retail items and the pouring staff is extremely gracious and helpful. The big draw? The wines -- truly excellent quality juice at moderately affordable prices. At a production level of 300,000 cases, it is an impressive facility that is producing a LOT of wine worth tasting:

2003 Napa Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc - Golden bouquet of melon and tropical fruit. Very smooth, easy mouth feel with a touch of cream and no stridency. Crisp finish that keeps going, finishing with a heightened green apple flavor. $12.50

2003 Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay - At a caseload production of almost 25,000 cases, this is a  pretty substantial amount of wine. Fresh fruit of pear, mango, and papaya aromas. The smooth, soft entry seems a bit flabby to me, but finishes with a bit more richness than anticipated. $18.00

1995 Merlot Reserve - Port-like dusty floral bouquet. Dark, integrated, toasty flavors of twigs and a faint finish of mint. Reasonable deal if drunk immediately. (On a special sell-off; $90 a case)

2001 Rutherford Reserve Merlot - Relatively small production of only 500 cases. 99% Merlot, 1% Cabernet. Classic Rutherford dust aromas that were slightly sweet with a touch of green pepper. Intense nose that continued into the mouth entry with dark red fruit and a long, balanced finish. $30.00

2001 St. Helena Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot. Almost 1,000 cases. Rich dark red wine displaying dark spice and plum in the nose. Easy, smooth mouth entry of rich blackberry and refined spices in the complex finish. 13.8% alcohol! $45.00

2001 Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - 99% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Merlot. Almost 1,000 cases. Hugh, spicy aromas that were surprisingly Syrah-like in blackness; dark fruit, blackberry liqueuer, and dark florals. Sweet entry exudes some dusty floral qualities. The wine smelled older and more developed than it tasted. Easy to drink now, but with a developed integration and supple mouthfeel that will only improve with age. $45.00

2000 Generations Cabernet Sauvignon - Dark spicy pepper and Moroccan spices with a touch of earth in its bouquet. Rich, dark flavors with some green bell pepper and mostly complex, dark currant, berry, and tobacco flavors. $65.00

Raymond Vineyard & Cellar ~ 849 Zinfandel Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-525-2659

Clos Pegas - 154

I was very surprised when I drove up to Clos Pegase. I was surprised that I had not made a more concerted effort to seek it out, considering the astonishing artwork and beauty of facilities.

Jan and Mitsuko Shrem's story of their relative humble beginnings is very impressive - and what they subsequently built here in the Napa valley is even more impressive. Jan traveled to Japan in the mid-1950s on vacation. Falling in love with the country and a woman, Mitsuko, he stayed and began a modest publishing in Japan. That modest publishing house grew into a small fortune, enabling Jan to travel to Bordeaux in 1980 to study winemaking.

Within three years, he had purchased fifty acres of prime Calistoga real estate and an invocation of a Bacchic spirit. The facilities were built in the mid-1980s with the intent of housing the impressive art collection that the Shrems had amassed. With a reverent  bow to the Greek temples, the edifice hearkens to the bleached white ancient temples but with a minimal cornice, negative space insets alluding to columns a single pillar in front which invites the visitor to a courtyard of additional pillars, and a color scheme slightly resembling orange and strawberry sherbet.

The grounds are filled with the Shrem's collection of art. As you enter the facilities, a number of large sculptures greet the visit -- from the whimsical giant thumb, set alongside working vineyards, to kinetic and a more classically Greek-oriented Herm. Also available within the grounds are picnic tables. While cheese and other picnic items are available within the tasting room for purchase, it is nice to know there is a spot amongst some engaging artwork where visitors can bring their own picnics.

The tasting room itself is also bedecked with a variety of modern and historical works. Behind the tasting bar is a tremendous scene of a Sybaritic bacchanal but several lighting units are decidedly modern with loops of folded glass cascading down from the ceiling. The room is large and inviting and also contains a two-story glass entryway, adequately showing off the impressive barrels in which wine is aging.

2004 Mitsuko's Vineyard Chardonnay- Golden yellow in color, dark pineapple dominates the nose. Rich fig and floral qualities coat the mouth in a creamy offering. The finish shows some mineral qualities but the ending is long and luscious. $21.00

2003 Mitsuko's Vineyard Pegase Circle Reserve Chardonnay - From Carneros, this lighter, lemony colored wine immediately displays lemon meringue qualities in the nose, subsiding to some depth of kiwi and faint pineapple. Soft entry blossoms with yellow floral tones and bright fruit. $24.50

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the rest being a proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. Mostly green nose of bell pepper and chili pepper. Tight, chewy entry was a tad hot. Needs time. $32.50

2002 Pegaso - 44% Petite Sirah, 44% Zinfandel, and 12% Syrah. Opulent bouquet of blueberry, bacon, and dark spiced berry. Tight, hot mouth entry slightly disappoints considering the amazing nose. Perhaps it just needs more time as well. Unknown price.

2000 Graveyard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon - From Carneros. Erratic aromas of spice, green bell pepper, and minerals. Very bright, tight entry showing youth and green chili peppers. Apparently it is considered a good selling point as the pourer was encouraging in his description of the inclusion of pepper flavors. Very, very odd. $60.00

To their credit, I have heard very good things about their wine. I believe the weather may have been far too hot on the day of my visit to give the wine its justice and plan on going back when the ambient temperature is more comfortable.

Clos Pegase ~ 1060 Dunaweal Lane ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 800-366-8583

Cuvaison - 153

Cuvaison is a well-known name around the Napa valley but I didn't realize the winery had such longevity; Thomas Cotrell and Thomas Parkhill purchased 27 acres  on the Silverado Trail, about half way between St. Helena and Calistoga. The past 35 years have seen a number of different captains the Cuvaison ship, with additional property acquired on Mt. Veeder and a substantial hunk of land in Carneros.

Now, with substantial business growth, one of Cuvaison's major claims to fame is that 20% of their 60,000 cases is sold internationally. This makes them often more well known outside the United States than within it. Also, of these 60,000 some-odd cases, over 65% of that is purely Chardonnay. Occasionally there are arguments that too much Cabernet Sauvignon is being made, but I believe many forget that it is really Chardonnay that leads the pack in grape growth.

The Cuvaison guest center is surprisingly small considering the volume production of the winery. It is small, yet charming. The interior of the building houses the tasting room and sales area. The staff working the room are pleasant and helpful. Another advantage of note is that this is one of the many wineries north of Deer Park Road on the Trail that has a picnic area. I continue to be astonished at the number of wineries that allow this located in this vicinity.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc - Green grass and lemon peel on the nose. Classically tangy entry with a full mouth of grapefruit. Spicy finish. $19.00

2003 Chardonnay, Carneros - 75% malo - Luscious stone fruit with well-integrated oak. Creamy sense of meringue on the entry, deepening to flavors of nutmeg. Tangy, lime finish. $35.00

2004 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir - Very, very pale pink color. Surprisingly creamy nose with a tease of berry. Tangy entry but no discernible flavors. $16.00

2003 Estate Pinot - Dripping wet with cherry, raspberry, and strawberry up front surrounding a core of vanilla oak. Dense and chewy with a harsh entry despite the great nose. Mineral finish thins and surprises from the big start. $48.00

2002 Syrah - Some moldy funk behind dark berry and black fruit. White pepper whispers in the back of the nostrils. Hot, tight entry softens a bit, showing surprisingly red, bright fruit. $28.00

2003 Espiritu Port - An odd combination of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, fortified with brandy. Petrol nose - behind the alcohol, mostly green olive aromas. Biting entry burns a bit. $35.00/375 ml

Cuvaison ~ 4550 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-6266

Calix - 150

There is something terribly special about being in on the ground floor of something. I certainly feel this way about Calix. With no formal tasting room, I was honored to be invited to a special release party of their 2003 vintage. While 2002 was their first vintage, this is a small winery relying on custom crush facility that I predict will start getting more and more notice. What is documented here in this blog entry was that release party held on a very hot Sunday afternoon by a cool, luxurious pool...

Ron Goldin (and his un-photographed partner, Mark Young) own ten acres of land at what is considered the south end of Calistoga, bordering on the north of Napa on the Silverado Trail. When they purchased this acreage ten years ago, the land housed horses. As local restaurateurs it did not take Ron and Mark long to realize that their property would be better suited to wine grapes than to horses. The property, affectionately named Masked Man, is mostly planted with Syrah but some Cabernet Sauvignon is beginning to appear on the Calix label.

BTW, I have to mention that I love the Calix name -- it is the Latin name for cup but imbues far more meaning in that it is more of a sacred chalice, used for celebrations. Pictured here is Rudy Zuidema and wife, Amy. While Ron and Mark provide the grapes and support for Calix, it is winemaker Rudy who crafts the wine and Amy who does all the sales, distribution, etc...

This event was more than a celebration of new wine. It was a revelry of friends and family. A band, placed safely under large white umbrellas, played rhumba music while dogs romped and teased children swimming in the adjacent pool. It was fabulous to meet with new friends as well as see friendly faces, all trying to stay cool under the beating rays of the sun. I envied the children their swimtrunks and inhibitions.

One new friend whose acquaintance I am making is Joel Ehrlich. Joel is the Executive Chef at several of Mark and Ron's restaurants including Brannan's and Flat Iron Grill. I was fortunate to dine at both for some recent reviews and couldn't have been more thrilled at my evening at Brannan's. Joel catered the Calix release party and was working hard in the kitchen when I snuck in to take this photo. My only regret for the day was the heat. I got to taste one of the Calix offerings over dinner but did not take notes. The notes below do not do the wine justice as it was just plain too hot to fully appreciate what I know to be quality wines. I look forward to tasting them again in the future.

2003 Calix Masked Man Syrah - Chocolate, blueberry, and blackberry aromas. Soft entry that explodes to show balanced tannins and a supple, concentrated finish. $33.00

2003 Calix Parmalee-Hill Vineyard Syrah - Deep, dark purple with explosive smokey bacon bouquet. Rich dark fruit flavors with impressive spice characteristics. $33.00

BARREL SAMPLES

2004 Calix Masked Man Syrah - Flavors of soy sauce, bacon, and blackberry. Dry entry that exhibits dark core of fruit. Still a bit hot. Not yet priced

2004 Calix Masked Man Cabernet Sauvignon - A limited production of 75 cases, when bottled. Blackberry and some greeness. Flavors of chocolate and dark cassis. Not yet priced.

Calix ~         3433 Scenic Drive ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-363-5574

August Briggs - 149

I find it interesting that many visitors to the Napa Valley fail to travel much beyond the "boundary" of St. Helena. I am often contacted by first-time visitors who are looking for wineries who are "off-the-beat-and-path, have good wine, and with tasting rooms that aren't packed like sardines." I often suggest those wineries, not only on the Silverado Trail, but also those on the trail which are north of Deer Park Road. August Briggs is such an establishment, far north on the Trail, with a Calistoga address but not quite so far up as to where the town begins.

Located on the west side of the road, the building is easily visible from the street, unassuming and considered simple, in this land of ostentatious chateaux and palaces. August Briggs' story is a relatively simple one - local talented winemaker starts his own label. But it is a bit more than that.

There are a lot of winemakers who start their own label. Not every winemaker who starts their own label goes to the extent of acquiring the land to build a tasting room and wine-making facilities. Joe Briggs is considered a negociant winemaker - which means that he purchases grapes from various vineyards of well-repute who sell their grapes. Becoming a winery owner AND vineyard owner is a whole new level. Personally, I think there are vineyard owners who are not making very good wine - and there are winery owners buying their grapes to make fabulous wine. Joe Briggs seems to be on the path of already knowing how to make exceptional wine. Perhaps at some point he will start buying vineyards as well, but for the time being, he's doing just fine.

2003 Napa Valley Pinot Meunier - Unusual to see this blending grape (usually used in sparkling wine), as a hundred-percent varietal. Upfront raspberry and strawberry components with a darker core of blueberry. Bright and medium-bodied, the mouthfeel was clean and upfront. Very easy to drink. $32.00

2003 Napa Valley Dijon Clones Pinot Noir - Classic aromas of dark berry and red cherry with hints of vanilla. Lighter cranberry on the mouth entry which is well-integrated, smooth, and easy. A bit of a bright tang on the end with some mineral qualities. $35.00

2003 Napa Valley Zinfandel - From 100-year old vines, the bouquet played between a dark cherry core and whiffs of smoke. Mostly spicy dark fruit in the mouth, reasonably tannins with a touch of heft and a peppery finish. $32.00

2002 Napa Valley Syrah - Surprisingly greenness on the nose -- not that the fruit was unripe, but more an underpinning of green bell pepper and green olive. Inky dark purple in color, the initial taste was smooth and concentrated with an erotic earthiness that was quite erotic and pleasing. $32.00

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon -- From a Spring Mountain vineyard, this dark, rich offering shows dark cocoa and integrated dusty herbs in the nose. Big bold flavors, mostly of hefty fruit and rich chocolate with a bit of sage on the finish. $48.00

August Briggs ~333 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-4912

Dutch Henry - 148

I spend a bit more time on wine chat lists than I probably should. Every other week or so, someone comes to the Napa valley for the first time and asks where they should go. The pundits on those sites always have their favorites and it is not unusual to see the same posters making the same recommendations over and over. But then someone will mention Dutch Henry as a little-known surprise and a chorus of  "Oh yeah, I always forget about that place -- its great!" is heard.

My visit to Dutch Henry was similarly enlightening. As I meandered up the Silverado Trail and saw the sign, that light bulb went off as I recalled the accolades. Immediately after parking alongside the building complex, I admired two other customers who were wiling away their Sunday afternoon on Dutch Henry's adjacent bocce ball court.

<>

Sitting in front of the tasting rooms, waiting for the next customer to arrive, was this nice chap, showing off a recent crop of squash from a nearby garden which lies on the grounds. Proud of his bounty, I was honored to have been offered what looked like an albino pumpkin. He assured me is an edible squash and not just decorative, which would best be enjoyed sliced thick and grilled. Later on that evening, I found out he was correct.

Dutch Henry's tasting room is relatively small and feels almost cramped amongst the stacked barrels of the air-conditioned warehouse. The atmosphere is one of being part of the working facilities as only minimal displays of the merchandise exist in this part of the building. In a nearby corner, lies a sample or two of olive oil that is also made by the company. A bit north on the Trail than many tourists tend to go, but undoubtedly worth the effort.

2002 Los Carneros Chardonnay - Distinct aroma of toasted popcorn. Not the butter on popcorn, but the actual fluffy white part. Rather odd. A non-ML chard, the flavors were crisp and clean, displaying green apple and light citrus notes. $26.00

2002 Napa Valley Argos - A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, and 25% Merlot. Including a bit of fruit from Howell Mountain, this wine has a rich, perfumey aroma of cocoa and black licorice behind a core of dark fruit. Spice shows itself first in the mouth and then cranberry in the middle. Smooth and easy, this is a balanced wine with an engaging mouth feel. $40.00

2002 Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - Another Howell Mountain offering, this was a tad more green than I expected from an '02 Howell Mountain wine. Needing more time in the bottle, the aroma is high-pitched with red plum and fresh cherry. Hints of clove and cinnamon exist and it is obvious the wine is well-made with potential, but simply needs some aging to show its true merits. $42.00

1999 Reserve Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - This vineyard is also a hillside vineyard, just south of St. Helena on Howell Mountain, but technically not within the appellation. Having spent 32 months in French oak, there are dark herbs along with the intense fruit in the nose and a decidedly cranberry mouth entry. Dry in the mid-palate, the finish has a sage tone. $68.00

2004 Napa Valley Pinot Noir - Yes, I thought it odd that they would pour a Pinot at the end, after the Cabernets. Fruit forward nose is soft and earthy showing cherry and bright raspberry. Slightly sweet on the first taste, the bright red fruit flavors exist and expand into ripe, rich mushrooms and developed, complex spice. $42.00

Dutch Henry ~ 4310 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 888-224-5879